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Low cost, high current power supply Print E-mail
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Finished PSU

For my sherline CNC project I needed a high current power supply capable of powering the logic on the stepper motor drive boards, and deliver high currents to the stepper motors. Suitable power supplies was priced at several hundred dollars. But I had an old ATX computer power supply in my basement and decided to convert this to a suitable power supply for my CNC project.

My ATX power supply is rated at 12V-19A, 5V-25A and 3,3V-18A. In addition it provides -12V and -5V. ATX power supplies comes in two variants, one with 20 pin connector and one (ATX v2.2) with a 24 pin connector. The ATX power supply connector pinout is found in the ATX specification available at www.formfactors.org. An easier description is found at the excellent electronics information page The Hardware Book, from where the below tables can be found.

ATX 20 pin connector
ATX 24 pin connector
Pin Name
Color Description
1 3.3V   Orange +3.3 VDC
2 3.3V   Orange +3.3 VDC
3 COM   Black Ground
4 5V   Red +5 VDC
5 COM   Black Ground
6 5V   Red +5 VDC
7 COM   Black Ground
8 PWR_OK   Gray Power Ok (+5V & +3.3V is ok)
9 5VSB   Purple +5 VDC Standby Voltage (max 10mA)
10 12V   Yellow +12 VDC
11 3.3V   Orange +3.3 VDC
12 -12V   Blue -12 VDC
13 COM   Black Ground
14 /PS_ON   Green Power Supply On (active low)
15 COM   Black Ground
16 COM   Black Ground
17 COM   Black Ground
18 -5V   White -5 VDC
19 5V   Red +5 VDC
20 5V   Red +5 VDC
Pin Name
Color Description
1 +3.3V   Orange +3.3 VDC
2 +3.3V   Orange +3.3 VDC
3 COM   Black Ground
4 +5V   Red +5 VDC
5 COM   Black Ground
6 +5V   Red +5 VDC
7 COM   Black Ground
8 PWR_OK   Gray Power Ok (+5V & +3.3V is ok)
9 +5VSB   Purple +5 VDC Standby Voltage (max 10mA)
10 +12V1   Yellow +12 VDC
11 +12V1   Yellow +12 VDC
12 +3.3V   Orange +3.3 VDC
13 +3.3V   Orange +3.3 VDC
14 -12V   Blue -12 VDC
15 COM   Black Ground
16 /PS_ON   Green Power Supply On (active low)
17 COM   Black Ground
18 COM   Black Ground
19 COM   Black Ground
20 N/C    Not connected
21 5V   Red +5 VDC
22 5V   Red +5 VDC
23 5V   Red +5 VDC
24 COM   Black Ground

My powersupply is an ATX v2.2 type, so all pin numbering in the schematics below refers to the 24 pin table.

Cut of all the power connectors so you are left with only the big bundle of cables. Collect the different colors of wires together. Remove the wires that is not needed. For my needs 12V and 5V is sufficient so I just stripped away all the wires for the other voltages, the -5V, -12V and "5V stand by". Some of the wires, like the 5V standby power was cut away on the PCB component side. Some other wires, like the 3,3V cable bundle, was de-soldered from the PCB solder side. Also remove some of the 5V and ground wires so that you are left with 4/5 wires of each color (black, red and yellow).

For computer powersupplies to correctly operate they need to have a certain load applied. Therefore a high power resistor must be connected between 5V and ground. In my parts bin I had a set of 10 ohm resistors. Coupling two in series gave 20 ohm load. Using Ohms law (U=R*I) we find the load current to be 5V/20ohm=0.25A. The power dissipated in each resistor (P=U*I) is then 2.5V*0.25A= 0.625W (2,5V as the 5 volt voltage is divided equally over the two identical resistors). To have some margin to save the resistors from being completely toasted the resistors should be able to handle at least 1W dissipated power. The power dissipated in the resistors can make them fairly hot, therefore I placed the resistors directly in the air flow from the power supply fan to help keeping them cool.

Schematic

 

Now connect the swith and the power-on indication lamp (if any). The switch connects the green "Powersupply on" to ground to turn on the Power Supply.The switch must be a toggle switch, not a momentary type, as the low level on PS_ON must be held low as long as the power is to operate. For my supply I use an industrial switch with built in 12V lamp. Therefore the lamp was connected directly between one 12V wire and ground. If a lower voltage lamp or LED is to be used you can also connect it to the gray "Power OK" wire. If you use a LED connected to either 5V or "Power OK", you should connect a resistor of approximately 330 ohms in series with the LED to reduce the current to approximately 10mA. Now all that is left is to assemble the encapsulation, and the power supply is ready for use.



Comments

avatar Kirk
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A few years ago I got tired of all the wall warts.I don't recall the whole process of realization but I now use my old power supply to power routers, modem, scanner, cell phone, well you get the idea. Didn't use any resister, but maybe the power supply is different. Thanks for the site, just wish I was born a couple decades later.
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avatar josh w
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If yellow +12 volts was used for + & blue -12 Volts was used would that give 24 Volts for your motor driver chips & gnd & 5v was used for digital logic? Then if that was possible how about 2 power supplys for 24v or 35V?
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avatar admin
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Hi Josh.
You will have 24 V between +12V and -12V, but the -12 V cannot deliver as much current as the +12V, so the max current rating of the -12V line would determine how much power you could draw. Typically just around 1 Ampere, compared to the 10-12 amperes typical for the +12V output.

Also the negative supply would be acting as GND for the motors, and would then be at a potential 12 volts below the ground level of the 5V, giving 17V between +5 and the motor ground, which would destroy the drivers.

Connecting two supplies in series to get 24V is in theory possible, but as both power supplys share the same ground potential trough the mains connection you need to do some more heavy modification to separate the grounds of the two power-supplies. I have seen it done somewhere on the web (tried searcing for it again, but couldnt find it), but I do not recommend it from safety point of view (in general, never mess with the ground connection for mains connected equipment, it might kill you).
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avatar test
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This is a great article you have!
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